© 2010 -
A Brief History 1750 -
Old Time Photos 1900s -
Old Time Photos 1940s -
Bridge High St 2013
Old Photos Carnival
Old Photos Civic Centre
Old Photos North Road Cemetery
Old Photos Peter Pans Playground
Old Photos Pier Hill & Sefront
Old Photos The Pier
Old Photos Priory Park
Old Photos Queensway
Old Photos Royals Shopping Centre
Old Photos Victoria Shopping Centre
Old Photos Victoria Avenue
Old Photos Victoria Circus & High St
A SEASIDE TOWN SOUTHEND-
Royal Hill, Southend-
In the early 14th century there appears to have been a landing place on the foreshore. Grain was brought here from Milton, to ‘Strathende’, to be loaded on to boats for transport to London. Strathende is thought to have been at the site of Southend, probably near the site of the old Kursaal. However, it was not until the end of the 15th century that we find the first mention of the name ‘Southend’. The name appears in a will, dated 1481 , as a geographical term, making reference to a settlement on the shoreline at the south end of Prittlewell Parish. “...venella vocat Southende parochie Beate Marie de Pritwell.” (Loosely translated as ‘a lane called Southend in the parish of St. Mary’s Prittlewell.’) At this period Southend probably consisted of little more than a lane leading to a jetty, with a small collection of fisherman’s huts.
The Settlement did not grow until after the beginning of the 18th century, when the cultivated oyster industry began to develop here. The foreshore then became valuable property, and legal battles were fought concerning the use and ownership of it. In 1767 John Remnant built a row of cottages “one with good accommodation and fireing”, for the oyster fishermen. These were know as Pleasant Row, (demolished in the 1960s). The following year a scheme was proposed to “render Southend a convenient place for bathing”. Although the scheme never really got under way, the Ship Inn was among buildings erected at this time. From this period the town began to expand, and by 1790 there were 19 houses in the ‘town’; in 1793 a theatre was opened, and two years later, the Caroline cold and warm sea water baths were opened.
At this period Southend was that area around the site of the Kursaal, the buildings concentrated along the foreshore. The principal road was Southend Lane, and the southern end of Southchurch Avenue.
Southend was becoming a popular resort, although still trailing well behind Brighton and Margate. However, in 1791, under the promotion of Thomas Holland, the Grand Terrace, Grand Hotel and Library were built on a prominent ridge to the west of the ‘Old Town’. The scheme also included Assembly and Coffee Rooms. One writer described this development as an ‘Earthly Paradise’ and ‘I doubt not but South End will be the rage’. A visitor to the old town at this period describes “....the humble cottages of the fishermen interspersed with a few houses neatly built and finished as lodging houses..; whilst the Inns offered viands and wines not at all inferior to those of the Grand Hotel and....on much more reasonable terms.” The Terrace and Hotel was completed in 1793.
Grove Terrace and Church
The Ship Hotel from the Beach
Rayleigh House, Strutts Parade (now Marine Parade)
The Terrace was renamed “Royal” following the visit to the Upper Town, of Princess Caroline, in 1804. Her daughter, Princess Charlotte, had visited the Lower or Old Town, for the bathing, three years earlier. She was attended, it is said, by a Mrs Glasscock, her personal ‘dipper’. The “Globe”, in 1806 began to publish a list of Society visitors to the now fashionable resort, and so popular was the town that the local inns were not large enough to accommodate all the visitors.
From the early 19th century passenger ships carried visitors from the metropolis to the resort of Margate, usually passing by Southend for lack of landing facilities. There were local pleasure craft and barges, owned by Mr. Mayall, Mr. Cockerton, and Mr. Vandervoord; however, apart from short jetties and ‘hards’, no pier existed for passengers and goods landing at low water. Those who did land, had to be carried on the backs of fishermen to the shore. In 1828, a group of local landowners, who could foresee the benefit of increased trade and traffic, met at the Royal Hotel, and proposed, among other things, that a pier should be erected. Therefore an Act of Parliament was to be sought, prompted by by Sir William Heygate, one of the local landowners, former resident of Royal Terrace, and former Lord Mayor of London. The scheme was to be financed through subscriptions and shares, and the money recouped through toll charges on goods and people. After some arguments, and various objections the pier was built at the foot of Royal Terrace ridge, and a toll house erected at its entrance. On the east side of the pier was a harbour, consisting on little more than breakwater; the pier was opened in 1830, and was built almost entirely of wood.
The journey from ship to shore was still not an easy or particularly pleasant affair. A vessel named “Clarence” had been purchased by the newly formed Southend Pier Company, and anchored off the end of the pier. Passengers would disembark on to this stationary vessel, and then be rowed by small craft, or walk, depending on the the state of the tide, to the pier. This vessel was later replaced by the ‘Lighthouse’ or ‘Mount’. By 1846, however the pier was extended to 1 ¼ miles in length, with a wide landing stage and three birthing places. In the same year the Southend Pier Company sold the pier by public auction, which realised £17,000. In 1873 the structure was purchased by the Local Board, and twelve years later the decision was taken to replace the old wooden structure with a new one made from iron and steel. Sir James Brunlees was to be the engineer. This new pier, begun in 1885 alongside the old one, was opened in 1889, complete with new brick entrance. In 1890 the pier rail track was completed and the first electric tram was operational. This replaced the horse drawn tram which had carried passengers along the length of the wooden pier.
The wooden Pier
1832 Southend Terrace
In 1901/1902 a water chute was built in part of the old harbour, against the east side of the pier, to be replaced quite soon afterwards by a boating pool. In 1908 the upper deck of the pier extension was opened and by 1930 the pier measured 2158 meters in length. In the following year the old pier entrance was demolished, to make way for the widened pier entrance and new seaside road. The pier became most popular towards the middle of the century, with over 2 ½ million people using the pier in 1950.
From 1787 a regular stage coach service was operated between the “Ship” at Southend and the “Bull” in Aldgate. By 1806 two coaches daily arrived at the town, beside the frequent post chaises. Southend was becoming fashionable, but the only roads into the town were the Turnpike routes, from Hadleigh and Rayleigh. The first paddle steamer on the Thames was the ‘Marjory’ or Margery, closely followed by the ‘Argyle’, later renamed the the ‘Thames’, which begun operating in July 1815. The Sir Joseph York was acquired in 1824 by the General Steam Navigation Company, and used on the London-
After much discussion by several railway companies, it was decided to lay a track along the coastline, to terminate at the pier. However, after objection from the residents of Royal Terrace, who claimed they would be disturbed by the noise and stress, the station was finally located to the north of the Upper Town, on the present site of Southend’s Central Station.
The line was constructed by the Eastern Counties and Blackwall Railway Companies, and leased to Messers. Peto, Brassey and Betts. The line was completed to to Southend and opened in 1856. In 1889 the Great Eastern Railway was extended to Southend, with terminus at the Southend of Victoria Avenue. With cheap and easy travel, the resident and visitor population of the town grew rapidly after the mid 19th century, and it soon became necessary to provide an efficient public transport system within the town. Before the end of the 19th century the only form of public transport was the horse drawn coach or bus, and the smaller vehicles, such as the ‘fly’ operated by Peter Trigg. The Trigg family were proprietors of several of the town’s inns, from which the fly and coach services operated.
In 1898 plans for a tramway system were prepared by the Corporation’s Light Railway Committee. The service, radiating from Victoria Circus, on a 3’ 6” gauge begun in 1901. In 1910 a ticket office and waiting room were built at Victoria Circus, as the number of visitors to the town increased yearly. However, as motor bus services, operated by the Westcliff Motor Services Ltd., grew in number, and the tramway services were never sufficient during the season to cope with the number of visitors, the tram services declined. They were replaced, after 1935, with trolleybus, and then by the omnibus.
Railway Station and Refreshment Room
In the last few years of the 19th century the north end of the High Street was developed, the Victoria Hotel built and rows of shops were built, with living accommodation above. Several photographic studios were opened, among which was Shepard’s Studios. and Lawton’s School of Photography and some well known names had come to Southend including Garons and the Penny Bazaar (later on the site Marks and Spencer). In 1906 the Public Library was built at the south end of Victoria Avenue, and in 1914 the town achieved County Borough status. By that time Southchurch and Leigh had been incorporated into the Borough, and in 1933 Shoebury and Eastwood were taken into the expanding Borough boundaries.
c1925 Victoria Circus
New Town and Shrubbery from the Pier
Luker’s Brewery was to the north of Attridge’s Cottage; Mrs Edward’s Tobacconist was near by, and in 1890 R. A. Jones opened his Jewellers in the High Street. In the previous year, William Heddle had opened his Cash Clothing Stores.
With the growth of population and visitors to the town, new roads were built, and housing estates grew up. The first of the new housing estates was ‘New Town’ or the Cliff Town’ estate, developed by Messrs. Peto, Brassey and Betts, and later Porter’s Town. The Park Estate, Burgess Estate, etc. In 1892 the town achieved Municipal Borough status. The greens, which fronted Marine Parade (Fairhead’s Green, Darlow’s Green, and Pawley’s Green) were purchased by the Corporation and the road widened. These greens had been the traditional site for market stalls and side shows, and many years previously, fairs had been held on Fairhead’s Green. From 1884 the greens were levelled and laid out with grass and flowers. Westcliff and Chalkwell Esplanade were laid out in 1903 and, after 1930, the Pier entrance was widened and road continued.
The High Street, in 1870, was little more than a country lane, leading from the ‘White Gate’ to the shore. About halfway down this road stood Mr. Attridge’s cottage, a small thatched building building adjacent to a shell-
1914 the town achieved County Borough status, the reading of the Charter of Incorporation at Pier Hill.
Electric Railway on the Pier
Collection of Old Time Photos + Amateur Home Cine Film on the Seafront at Southend-
Collection of Old Time Photos of Southend-
Railway Bridge Removal Photos from the High Street
Bridge High St
Old Photos of the Civic Centre Southend-
Old Photos of the Cemetery North Road Southend-
North Rd Cemetery
Old Photos of Peter Pans Playground Southend-
Peter Pans Playground
Old Photos of Pier Hill & Seafront + Amateur Home Cine Film Southend-
Pier Hill & Seafront
Old Photos of Priory Park Southend-
Old Photos of Queensway
Old Photos of Victoria Avenue Southend-
Victoria Circus -
Old Photos of Victoria Circus-
Old Town Centre Maps of
The Changing Face of Southend-
Changing Face of Southend
Profiling Carol Edwards
Southend Waterworks Co
Old Photos of The Southend Waterworks Co/Essex Water Co Southend-
Mixed Collection of Town Photos from 2000 onwards
21st Century Southend-
Old Town Photos of Southend
Collection of Old Town Photos from Categories in
Old Photos + Amateur Home Cine Film of the Carnival Southend-
Old Photos of the The Pier + Amateur Home Cine Film
Old Town Photos of The Royals Shopping Centre & High St Southend-
Photos by Craig Smith
Royals Shopping Centre & High St
Victoria Shopping Centre
Old Photos of Victoria Shopping Centre Southend-
Profiling Roy Dilley
Local Author & Cinema Enthusiast
A Seaside Town,A Brief History Southend-
The northern bank of the Thames upon which Southend-
1st – 5th Century A.D. Roman Occupation area north of Thames.
500 – 650. Settlement in district of pagan Saxons.
824. Southchurch Church founded.
894. Battle of Benfleet. Danes defeated and driven across site of modern Southend to Shoebury by King Alfred’s men.
1016. Battle of Ashingdon. Edmund Ironside defeated by Canute.
1066 – 87. Rayleigh Castle built.
1110. Prittlewell Priory established.
1220 – 30. Hadleigh Castle built.
C1240. Southchurch Hall built.
13th Century. Market established at Prittlewell.
1381. The Peasants’ Revolt. Led by John Syrat of Shoebury and local peasants against the Poll Tax.
1478. Edward IV granted the Licence for the Jesus Guild, Prittlewell.
1509 – 47. First record of the name “Southende” (in the reign of Henry VIII).
1530. Anne Bolyne resident at Rochford Hall.
1536. Suppression of the Priory at Prittlewell.
1588. The Armada. Leigh was an important Naval Base and an armed force was established to protect the seaport.
16th Century. Rise of Leigh as a Port and as a Naval Base.
1604 – 16. Rev. Samuel Purchas, author of “Purchas: his Pilgrimes”, Vicar of Eastwood, records Battell’s Travels.
1610. Andrew Battell, a Leigh seaman, was the first European to travel in Central Africa, and returned to Leigh after 21 years’ absence in Africa and America.
1620 – 30. Canvey Island drained by the Dutch.
1652. During the Dutch Wars, Admiral Blake’s fleet was refitted at Leigh.
1653. In February, Blake sailed from the Thames with sixty warships and defeated the Dutch admiral, Van Tromp, in the English Channel.
17th – 18th Century. Prominence of Leigh and Leigh seamen in naval history and Dutch Wars. Among these were members of the Salmon, Haddock and Goodlad families.
Captain William Haddock (1607 – 1667) served with distinction against the Dutch, and was awarded a gold medal by the Commonwealth Govt. (1649 – 1660) for his services. His son, Admiral Sir William Haddock (1629 – 1715), became Comptroller of the Navy.
Robert Salmon and William Goodlad, both Masters of Trinity House, took prominent parts in the Greenland Whale Fisheries, the latter commanding the Greenland Company’s fleet for twenty years.
1768. First mention of Southend for sea -
1793. Erection of Royal Hotel and terrace.
1797. Mutiny of seamen at the Nore.
1801. Princess Charlotte of Wales, daughter of George IV, visited Southend for sea-
1803. Princess Caroline of Bruswick (wife of the Prince Regent, afterwards George IV) visited Southend.
During the Napoleonic Wars it was thought that the French might attempt a landing on the north bank of the Thames Estuary. Jonas Asplin of Wakering and John Lodwick of Southend raised and commanded a troop of volenteer calvery, and a company of infantry respectively, to resist any attempted invasion.
1829, May. The Act (George IV. Cap. Xlix) authorising the construction of the first Pier, received Royal Assent and Alderman Sir William Heygate, Bart., Lord Mayor of Londonin 1822-
1829, July. First stone of embankment of Southend Pier laid by the Lord Mayor of London, Alderman Sir William Thompson, M.P., as Conservator of the Thames.
1835. Completion of the Pier.
1854. First railway to Southend.
1889. Second railway to Southend.
1892. Incorporation of the borough. Population 13,000, rateable valuable £82,000.
1897. Southchurch included in the borough. Population 23,000, rateable value £122,911.
1909. Visit of Home and Atlantic Fleets (150 warships moored off Southend).
1914, 1st April. Attained status of County Borough.
1915, June. Visit of H.M. Queen Mary to Queen Mary’s Naval Hospital.
1917, July. Visit of H.R.H. Princess Mary to Queen Mary’s Naval Hospital.
1919, July. Peace celebrations. Visit of H.M. Grand Fleet.
1920 July. Opening of Priory Park and the “R. A. Jones” Children’s Memorial Ground by H.R.H. the Duke of York, K.G.
1921 and 1923 July. Visits of H.M. King George V (Yachting Week).
1925, March. Opening of London-
1926, July. Opening of Municipal Golf Course at Belfairs Park.
1929, July. Opening of eastern arm of Pier Extension by H.RH. Prince George K.G.
1929, November. Laying of the New General Hospital Foundation Stone by H.R.H. the Duchess of York.
1931, July. International bowling matches at Southend.
1932, July. Opening of General Hospital. Cost £200.000.
1933, October. Inclusion of Shoeburyness and Eastwood. Population 130,000, rateable value £1,381,269. Area 10,333 acres.
1935, May. Visit of Home Fleet. H.M. King George V Silver Jubilee Celebrations.
1935, July. Centenary of the Pier and opening of the new Lifeboat House.
1935, September. Opening of Municipal Aerodrome.
1937, May. Visit of Home Fleet H.M. King George VI Coronation Celebrations.
1938, October. Laying of foundation stone of Municipal Hospital Extension at Rochford by H.R.H. The Duchess of Kent, C.I.